Short row lace – machine knitting

Today I thought I would have a go at a form of lace knitting on my knitting machine.  Short row knitting is a classic shaping technique in both hand and machine knitting and can be employed to produce some lovely fabrics.

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Decide on your pattern. I have 4 needles in work and 2 needles out of work. Then work out your set up to include working needles on both sides. Make a short hem with all needles in work. Carriage on RHS. Now transfer the stitches on the out of work needles to adjacent needles. Push those needles down to A or whatever is out of work on your machine.

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Push all in work needles to holding position except for the first set of 4 needles on the rhs. Put holding cam to hold. Knit the set of needles in work x6. Push the next set of working needles to the high working position. Knit x6. *Push the next set of needles to the high working position. Knit x1. Push the first set of working needles to holding position. (2 sets of needles now in working position.). Knit x5. * Continue by pushing next set of needles into working position and knit x1 then push other end set of needles into holding position and knit 5. And so on to end of the bed. Reverse to go back along the bed. NB at the end of the bed continue pattern minus pushing needles into working position until you are left with one set of 4 needles in working position.

Suffrage Centenary Picnic

Sunday saw the Suffrage Family Picnic in Arnot Hill Park, our local Park. This is part of a number of events this year planned, supported and underwritten by Gedling Borough Council.  I am part of the Centenary planning group led by Councillor Roxanne Ellis (Equalities Policy Adviser) and my role was to organise yarn bombing the Park.  The Fabulous Yarnarchists worked hard to produce green, white, violet and some red items and we descended on the Park to cover it in Suffragette and Suffrage loveliness!   With excellent weather this free event was greatly enjoyed by many local families.

The day started with a number of us dressed as Suffragettes and Roxanne delivered a rousing original speach from a soapbox in the Arnold Market Square.

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We even had a heckler who we saw off with a rousing shout of “Votes for Women!”  Then a march to the Park joined by our local MP Vernon Coaker and communal singing of suffragette songs.

As families unpacked their picnics the entertainments included a pop-up theatre production of an original suffrage themed play put on by our local amateur dramatics group, The Prospect Players.  We had a craft tent run by Gedling Play Forum, Edwardian games, and an Edwardian entertainer wandering around the park with  unicycle and juggling tricks.  Finally we enjoyed an open air showing of the original Mary Poppins. (Not forgetting that Mrs Banks aas a Suffragette!)  As they might have said in 1918 “It was, in all, absolutely splendid!”

So sit back and enjoy the photos!

Suffragette Chains – Crochet pattern

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It being the centenary when some women in the UK finally got the vote, I have got involved with planning some events in Gedling Borough. In particular, the Borough is organising a family picnic in July in one of the local parks.  I coordinate a local crafting group called Notts Yarnarchists (search for us on Facebook)  and agreed to coordinate yarn bombing the park.  This will be in suffragette colours naturally. So green white and violet (give women the vote) for the more radical suffragettes or green white and red for the more law-abiding groups.  The colours should be in those orders.

As these lovely ladies tended to do things like chain themselves to railings I decided to crochet some chains. (Balls optional.) Looking round however surprisingly (!) They do knot and seem to be crochet patterns for suffragette chains. I did find a pattern for a chunky yarn chain Scarf on Ravelry by Lorna Watts: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/chain-link-scarf-11, which was a helpful start.  So, with due acknowledgement to Lorna, here is my own. I make this pattern free to all fellow Yarnarchists but it would be nice if you could acknowledge my authorship.  Please do not sell on the pattern, thanks.

This pattern is worked in double knitting yarn. For yarn bombing it is better to use a good cheap acrylic. Wool tends to sag in the rain. You will want either green white and violet colours or green white and red colours. By all means if you have something suitable in your yarn stash use that, so long as it is close to these colours I’m sure it will be fine, the suffragettes themselves chose a range of these colours.

To make a good solid fabric choose a crochet hook about one size smaller than the recommended crochet hook for your yarn. You will also need scissors and a tapestry or darning needle.

You will need to be able to do chain stitch, slip stitch, double crochet (UK)/single crochet (USA). Optional, chainless foundation double crochet (UK)/single crochet (USA). You can start this pattern in one of two ways.

If you choose option 1
use a larger size crochet hook just to make the chain, then swap to your chosen smaller hook. This will make it easier to work the first row into the chain.  I am using a 3.5 mm hook for the work so I will make my chain with a 4.5 mm hook.

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Start with a slip knot and make 30 chains, then join the chain into a loop using a slip stitch.  Take great care not to twist the chains you need to see the bump side of your chain running all the way around the outside of the loop.  Swap to your smaller hook.

Attention point – for all subsequent ‘links’ in your suffragette chain you will need to close the loop in the previous ‘link’.  Don’t forget – it’s quite annoying having to undo everything later on.

First row

Either: option 1
make one chain and then work a double crochet (UK)/single crochet (USA) into the very first bomb that you see.  Check again that you haven’t twisted your chain. Work a double crochet (UK)/single crochet (USA) into the bumps at the back of the chain. At the front of the chain you will see rows of Vs marching their way along the chain. The back of the chain you will see bumps in a line working their way along the chain.  When you have done the last bump join the end of the first row to the beginning with a slip stitch through the top V and pull that quite firmly.

 

Or: option 2
Make 30 stitches using a chainless double crochet (UK)/single crochet (USA) foundation row.  Use the smaller crochet hook throughout.  When you get to the end make your loop by joining the first stitch to the last stitch using a slip stitch. If you don’t know how to do a chainless foundation row there are some very good tutorials on YouTube.

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The advantage of doing it this way is that it is actually a lot quicker than the previous option of working the first row into the back bumps of the chain  And you are far less likely to twist it inadvertently.   The disadvantage is possibly that you will see a little gap underneath the first row but this is easily rectified by threading up tail on a tapestry needle at the very end and just stitching the gap together.

Second and subsequent rows:
make nine rows. Don’t forget that if you are using the chainless foundation row that that counts as your first row.  You can make more or less – I just found 9 made a pleasing size link.

Start each row by making a single chain and then work a double crochet (UK)/single crochet (USA) into the same stitch. Then work a double crochet (UK)/single crochet (USA) into each stitch.
Attention point
when you get to the very end of the row take care that you don’t make an additional stitch as the gap may look quite wide until you join the row using a slip stitch.  You may like to put a stitch holder into the first stitch as you make it to help you identify it as it can get pulled quite flat and the single chain you worked can look like another stitch in the first row.

 

Roll up and join the link edges:

At this point I suggest if you have used the chainless foundation row method you thread up the tail end in your darning needle and neatly stitch the bottom edge together.

Roll the bottom edge of your work up towards the top edge all around the link. Hold the two edges together so you can see the V stitch edges side-by-side. I like to join my edges by using the zipper stitch on the inside loops only. Again, there are some very good tutorials on YouTube. However any flat joining method will work and you will be rolling the edge on the inside of the link in any event.

Finish:
Weave in your ends and ease the join to the inside of the link.  Then start the next link of your suffragette chain remembering to join that link through the last link.

This is a work in progress and I will add more photos when it is finished. 😊

Inspired by Winter Light and Landscape

The Braid Society

The Braid Society   present an annual travelling exhibition and, encouraged by my kumihimo sensei, I have decided to submit a contribution.

I have ended up making two belts, inspired by photographs found online.  One set of photographs feature the northern lights, the other set features sunset throught birch trees in the snow.Both however use the same kumihimo pattern.  My challenge is a 24 thread sasanami-gumi.  The distinct variations are as a result of using different threads, colourways and colour setup.

 

Keiru No Himo

 

Today I will learn a new braid. Keiru No Kimo is a 16 tama 15th century braid. Source: Catherine Martin, Kumihimo – Japanese silk braiding techniques, basic marudai braids. 1986 Old Hall Press. Pages 70-71.

Catherine Martin : Kumihimo pages 70-71

Catherine Martin : Kumihimo pages 70-71

the setup is pattern (c), three colours in slate blue, silver grey and pink, using DMC rayon embroidery thread.  Each warp is two full strands.

Main colour in north and west - slate blue.  Silver grey in south and pink in east.

Main colour in north and west – slate blue. Silver grey in south and pink in east.

70 gram tama with 800 gram counter weight.  I have used sone of my beach stone collection to make up the weight.counter weight

Learning Kumihimo from the Internet

Many years ago, while browsing a tiny shop at a lock on a canal I came across a strange foam disc.  It took my fancy and I bought it.  As we often do with new toys, I played with it for a while and then put it aside.The instructions were not very illuminating.   I have picked it up again and with new friends on the internet I am having a more determined go at learning this exquisit Japanese Craft.